Thailand

Nakon Phanom, Thailand riverwalk

Nakon Phanom, Thailand, riverwalk

We arrived at the Laos border from Thakhek, and traveled to Nakhon Phanom, Thailand from the bus station on the Laos side. Is there a more beautiful way to talk about all of this? It’s departures and arrivals. Buses and trains. I know there was beauty in all of it. The expectation of newness, even though there’s sense of what it will be. There are moments of somewhat profound newness- loading the bikes into the bus. Getting a bus ticket on robin’s egg blue pieces of paper the size of a notecard. Communicating with new people through gestures and the phone. Watching their mixed reception. Standing to go to the bathroom, which I remind myself is proper Ayurvedic posture. Soothing myself in the discomfort of it. Dark bathrooms, poorly lit. Hosed down often. With a distinct look of being dirty. The whole bus station in a veneer in accepted age. Each stand neatly organized with plastic wrapped crackers, biscuits, rice cakes the size of your face. Long lines of clothes that I can’t imagine anyone buying. The faces of people hardened into ritual both waiting for the bus and operating their stands/booths.

The border checkpoint went smoothly. We rode six miles south on the lefthand side of the road, which is now the correct side to ride. Throughout this trip we have bounced from different sides depending on the country- Laos and Vietnam are right sides, Thailand and Cambodia are left. This can be dizzying approaching traffic at a four way intersection and looking for who is going where, thinking or knowing that the order you are used to needs to be double checked. 

In the past, we picked places to stay that looked sad and found a cute second story room on the Mekong river by chance. We were looking for somewhere else and the shopkeeper of a boutique greeted us warmly. Our confusion is often met this way, allowing this trip to have grace. We did the necessary things- currency exchange, atm, grilled meat, new esim, James got a new chain, a nap, a stroll down the night market which happened to be the night we were a town like a welcoming parade or divine welcoming. 

I don’t think things will always work out, they just do. 

It's nearly impossible to ride your bicycle over the friendship bridge from Thakhek to Nakon Phanom. So our bikes and us got bus tickets across the bridge and went through immigration. Rode the highway to Nakon Phanom where we stayed on the Mekong River where there happened to be a Friday night market.

Our first full riding day in Thailand. Lovely drizzly morning that turned into a breezy afternoon with cloud coverage. Slightly rolling hills. Well paved village roads. Lots of barking days. Extremely well fed water buffalo with extremely large droppings. James rolled one right through the center. Staying in a busy lake front town hosting a nationwide academic competition and were barely able to find a room. Feeling a distinct difference between Thailand’s infrastructure and Vietnam or Laos. It’s also pricier and more people speak English. Feels more developed and less… quaint.

Left this historical/industrial town of Sakon Nakon and traveled up a really beautiful well graded climb through the Phu Pha Leo National park. Walked a nature loop and sat in creek. So far, Thailand has had really great roads. This is no exception especially in a mountainous area.

Did a great well graded climb and made it into Somdet riiiight at dark. We’re planning on staying at the dam but nothing was available because of a nationwide academic conference.

Longer riding day on the hwy. Road was smooth but there was heavy traffic. Chose this route as the fastest way to get to Khon Kaen before a typhoon Kajiki blows into northeastern Thailand from Vietnam. Passed by many temples. Ate bbq by a lake with recommendations from a really lovely and helpful Thai man who speak great English.